Discovering Nicosia: The Divided Capital of Cyprus
- zengenxplorers
- May 11
- 5 min read
Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is a city not only steeped in history and culture, but also marked by division and conflict. As the last divided capital in Europe, Nicosia (also known as Lefkosia) offers a unique lens through which to explore the complexities of Cypriot identity, history, and the ongoing effects of political strife. This blog post delves into the historical context of the city’s division, the role of the United Nations buffer zone, and the contrasting characteristics of the Greek Cypriot and Turkish-occupied sides, while also providing useful tips for budget-conscious travellers.
Here's a Brief Historical Overview
The history of Nicosia is rich and varied, influenced by Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman, and British rule. However, the pivotal moment that shaped the modern history of Nicosia occurred in the mid-20th century. Following a period of British colonial rule, the desire for union with Greece (also known as Enosis) among the Greek Cypriot population led to rising tensions with the Turkish Cypriots. In 1960, Cyprus gained independence, but the power-sharing agreement between the two communities quickly deteriorated.
In 1974, a coup d'état supported by the Greek military junta aimed at achieving Enosis or unification with Greece, triggered a response from Turkey which invaded the northern part of the island. This military intervention resulted in the division of Nicosia, creating a stark contrast between the southern Greek Cypriot area and the northern Turkish-occupied territory. The city was effectively split in two, with the Green Line (or UN buffer zone) marking the boundary.
The United Nations Buffer Zone
The Green Line, established by the United Nations in 1974, serves as a buffer zone separating the two sides of Nicosia. Stretching approximately 180 kilometres across the island, this zone was once one of the most militarised areas in the world. The UN peacekeeping force, known as UNFICYP (United Nations Force in Cyprus), was deployed to monitor the ceasefire and maintain peace.
The buffer zone is a peculiar space, characterised by abandoned buildings, barbed wire, and the remnants of a city caught in time. While it serves as a reminder of the conflict, it has also become a site of curiosity and exploration. In recent years, the UN has facilitated cross-border initiatives, allowing residents from both sides to engage in dialogue and cultural exchange, fostering hope for future reconciliation.
Contrasts Between the Two Sides
Walking through Nicosia, travellers cannot help but notice the stark differences between the Greek Cypriot and Turkish-occupied sides of the city. The southern part, primarily inhabited by Greek Cypriots, boasts a vibrant atmosphere, international chains of shops and restaurants, bustling cafes, and historical landmarks. The old town features beautiful Venetian walls, The Cyprus Museum which is crammed with archaeological finds from the Neolithic Age to the Byzantine period, and the iconic Ledra Street which leads to the crossing point into the north.
In contrast, the Turkish-occupied side is marked by a different cultural landscape. The northern area, known as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), is officially recognised only by Turkey. The architectural style reflects Ottoman influences, with the stunning Selimiye Mosque and Turkish-style buildings such as Buyuk Han dominating the skyline. While some parts of the north have experienced revitalisation, others still bear the scars of conflict with many buildings left in disrepair.
Culturally, the two sides offer distinct experiences. The southern side embraces Greek Cypriot traditions, with festivals celebrating folklore, music, and cuisine. The Turkish side, on the other hand, showcases Turkish culture with its own culinary delights, music, and festivals. Both sides have their unique charm, yet the division creates an intriguing juxtaposition that highlights the complexities of Cypriot identity.
Budget-Friendly Sightseeing
For budget-conscious travellers looking for affordable activities, Nicosia has plenty to offer. Here are some of the top attractions that won’t break the bank:
1. Ledra Street: This pedestrianised street is a hub for shopping and dining, and it features a crossing point to the Turkish controlled side. You'll first need to show your passport to the Cypriot authorities, and then you'll pass through to the Turkish controlled side where you'll need to show your passport again to their immigration officers. Just make sure you are in the correct queue as there is a separate line for residents to come and go from one side to the other.
2. The Cyprus Museum: Entry to this beautiful building showcasing artifacts from various periods of the island's history is FREE, and a must-visit for history enthusiasts. The museum also has some attractive gardens and a cafe which is open during the busier tourist season.
The Cyprus Museum
3. Venetian Walls: A walk around these historic fortifications is free and provides stunning views of the city. Visitors can also explore the Paphos Gate amongst others, and the orange tree-lined moat areas that surround the walls.
4. Buyuk Han: Located in the Turkish-occupied side, this beautifully restored caravanserai (a traditional inn set around a courtyard which would have provided lodgings for travellers) offers a glimpse into the island's Ottoman past. Entry is free, and the site features independent shops selling artisan crafts along with cafes and eateries.
Buyuk Han: an old caravanserai on the Turkish controlled side of Nicosia
5. Selimiye Mosque: Originally a cathedral, this striking mosque located in the Turkish controlled part of Nicosia is open to visitors and provides insight into the cultural intermingling of Cyprus.
6. UN Buffer Zone: Walk the Green Line and get a glimpse of some parts of the eerie buffer zone. The photo below was taken near Paphos Gate, next to the Holy Cross Catholic Church and close to the abandoned United Nations 65 command post.
Getting to Nicosia
Nicosia is accessible by bus or car to travellers from various locations in Cyprus, making it easy for visitors from different regions to explore the capital:
- From Paphos: Take a bus from Paphos to Limassol (about 1 hour), then transfer to a bus heading to Nicosia (approximately 1.5 hours). Total travel time is around 2.5–3 hours. Alternatively if you are driving yourself, you can take the A6 and A1 and the journey time is approximately 1hr and 40 minutes.
- From Larnaca: Direct buses run from Larnaca to Nicosia, taking about 1 hour. This is one of the most straightforward options for reaching the capital. By car, you can take the A2 directly to Nicosia and the journey time is approximately 40 minutes.
- From Ayia Napa/Protaras: Take a bus to Larnaca (around 40 minutes), then transfer to the bus for Nicosia. Total travel time is approximately 1.5–2 hours. If you're coming by car you can take the A3 and the journey time is approximately 1 hour from Ayia Napa and 1hr 15mins from Protaras.
A Final Thought
Nicosia stands as a testament to the resilience of its people amidst the shadows of division. The rich history, cultural diversity, and ongoing efforts for reconciliation make it a fascinating destination for travellers and a poignant reminder of the complexities of identity and belonging.
For budget-conscious travellers, the city offers numerous affordable attractions, accommodation, and dining options, ensuring an enriching experience without breaking the bank. Whether you find yourself sipping coffee in a bustling café in the south or exploring the historical streets of the north, Nicosia offers a unique experience that captures the essence of Cyprus and its enduring spirit. We wouldn't have missed it for the world and we'd highly recommend it to any other travellers looking to explore this captivating city during a stay in Cyprus. We'll leave you with a few more photos to enjoy!
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