Discovering Nicosia: The Divided Capital of Cyprus

Nicosia, the capital of Cyprus, is a city not only steeped in history and culture, but also marked by division and conflict. As the last divided capital in Europe, Nicosia (also known as Lefkosia) offers a unique lens through which to explore the complexities of Cypriot identity, history, and the lasting effects of political strife.

This fascinating city allows you to walk between two worlds in a single afternoon, crossing from one culture to another with just a passport and a short stroll. It’s thought-provoking, atmospheric, and surprisingly easy to explore on a budget.

A Brief Historical Overview

The history of Nicosia is rich and varied, shaped by Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman, and British rule. However, the pivotal moment that shaped modern Nicosia came in the mid-20th century.

Following a period of British colonial rule, the desire for union with Greece (known as Enosis) among many Greek Cypriots led to rising tensions with the Turkish Cypriot community. Cyprus gained independence in 1960, but the power-sharing agreement between the two groups quickly deteriorated.

In 1974, a coup supported by the Greek military junta aimed at achieving Enosis triggered a response from Turkey, which invaded the northern part of the island. This military intervention resulted in the division of Nicosia, creating a stark contrast between the southern Greek Cypriot area and the northern Turkish-controlled territory.

The city was effectively split in two, with the Green Line — a UN-controlled buffer zone — marking the boundary.

A cat relaxes outside an abandoned UN command post on the Cypriot side of Nicosia's buffer zone

The United Nations Buffer Zone

The Green Line, established by the United Nations in 1974, separates the two sides of Nicosia. Stretching roughly 180 kilometres across the island, it was once one of the most militarised zones in the world.

The UN peacekeeping force, known as UNFICYP (United Nations Force in Cyprus), monitors the ceasefire and helps maintain stability.

In the heart of the city, the buffer zone feels surreal. Abandoned buildings, barbed wire, and empty streets give the impression that time simply stopped in 1974. It’s eerie, but also deeply fascinating.

In recent years, the opening of crossing points has allowed residents and visitors to move between the two sides more easily, encouraging dialogue, trade, and cultural exchange.

Cypriot Nicosia

Contrasts Between the Two Sides

Walking through Nicosia, the contrasts between the two sides are immediately noticeable.

The southern part, administered by the Republic of Cyprus, has a lively, modern feel. You’ll find international shops, cafés, restaurants, and well-restored historic streets. The old town features the impressive Venetian walls, the excellent Cyprus Museum, and the pedestrianised Ledra Street, which leads directly to the crossing point into the north.

Across the border, the northern side has a noticeably different character. The area is administered by the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC), which is recognised only by Turkey.

Here, Ottoman architecture dominates. The striking Selimiye Mosque and the beautifully restored Buyuk Han are among the highlights. Some areas have been revitalised, while others still show the scars of conflict, with empty or crumbling buildings scattered through the backstreets.

Exploring the backstreets of Turkish-controlled Nicosia

Culturally, the differences continue. The southern side reflects Greek Cypriot traditions, while the north showcases Turkish influences in its food, music, and daily life. Experiencing both in one visit is what makes Nicosia so unique.

Budget-Friendly Sightseeing

For travellers looking to explore without spending a fortune, Nicosia offers plenty of low-cost or free attractions.

1. Ledra Street Crossing

This pedestrianised street is the main crossing point between the two sides. You’ll need your passport to pass through checkpoints on both sides. It’s a straightforward process, but make sure you’re in the correct queue, as residents use a different line.

Ledra Street Crossing

2. The Cyprus Museum (Free entry)

A must-visit for history lovers, this museum houses artefacts from the Neolithic era through to the Byzantine period. There’s also a pleasant garden area and a seasonal café.

3. Venetian Walls

These historic fortifications encircle the old town and are completely free to explore. Walk along the tree-lined moat areas and pass through historic gates such as Paphos Gate.

Passing through Paphos Gate in the Venetian walls of Nicosia

4. Buyuk Han (Free entry)

Located on the northern side, this beautifully restored Ottoman caravanserai is centred around a peaceful courtyard. It’s now home to artisan shops, cafés, and small galleries.

Buyuk Han: an old caravanserai on the Turkish controlled side of Nicosia

5. Selimiye Mosque

Originally a Gothic cathedral, this impressive building was later converted into a mosque. It’s open to visitors outside prayer times and offers a striking example of Cyprus’s layered history.

Selimiye Mosque

6. The Green Line viewpoints

Certain streets near the buffer zone offer glimpses into the abandoned areas. One of the most striking views is near Paphos Gate, close to the Holy Cross Catholic Church.

True to our “Explore More, Spend Less” style, we packed our own lunch and ate it on a bench in the northern side of the city. Aside from a couple of well-earned beers, it cost us almost nothing to spend the day exploring both sides of this fascinating capital.

Getting to Nicosia

The Turkish flag etched into the mountains on the Turkish-controlled side of the capital

Nicosia is easy to reach from most parts of Cyprus by bus or car.

From Paphos

• Bus via Limassol: about 2.5–3 hours total

• By car (A6 and A1): around 1 hour 40 minutes

From Larnaca

• Direct bus: about 1 hour

• By car (A2): around 40 minutes

From Ayia Napa or Protaras

• Bus via Larnaca: around 1.5–2 hours

• By car (A3): about 1 hour from Ayia Napa, 1 hour 15 minutes from Protaras

A Final Thought

Nicosia stands as a powerful reminder of the resilience of its people. Its history, cultural contrasts, and ongoing efforts toward reconciliation make it one of the most thought-provoking destinations in Cyprus.

For budget-minded travellers, the city offers plenty of affordable sights, food options, and experiences. You can sip coffee in a lively southern café, then cross the border and explore Ottoman courtyards and quiet backstreets just minutes later.

It’s not just a capital city — it’s a place where history is still visible in the streets, and where two cultures exist side by side. We wouldn’t have missed it for the world, and we’d highly recommend adding it to your Cyprus itinerary.